Surfing, Depression and Identity

Like many, I started surfing because it looked fun and cool. The whole lifestyle was inviting. The secret language, the adventure, the...

The Style Trap

It goes without saying the lineup can be an intimidating setting. Whether you’re braving the outside for the first time on your brand new...

An Average Surfer in Costa Rica

There is a variable plethora of travelers and explorers roaming the earth these days. I meet all types of folk while on surf trips around...

Water

Editor’s Note: The following is an edited excerpt from the soon to be released“The Average Surfer’s Guide,” a book about forgetting the...

The Average Surfer's Guide

The release date has been set, November 19th.  You can get on the pre order list by dropping your name and email into the form on the...

An Average Surfer in Baja

"I'll put up a GoFundMe to pay the ransom.” That was the joking response I received from my boss when I told him I was going to Baja on...