Surfing, Depression and Identity

Like many, I started surfing because it looked fun and cool. The whole lifestyle was inviting. The secret language, the adventure, the...

An Average Surfer in Sayulita, Mexico

One of my goal is to surf around the world and report back to all the other average surfers out there, offering a more relatable view of...

What my first real wipeout taught me.

The following is an exerpt from the author’s new book, The Average Surfer’s Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression... I was about...

The Style Trap

It goes without saying the lineup can be an intimidating setting. Whether you’re braving the outside for the first time on your brand new...

Core Surfing

This article was taken from the blog at www.fitzroysurfboards.com I am not talking about your fitness.  I am talking about you, me and...

Water

Editor’s Note: The following is an edited excerpt from the soon to be released“The Average Surfer’s Guide,” a book about forgetting the...

The Average Surfer's Guide

The release date has been set, November 19th.  You can get on the pre order list by dropping your name and email into the form on the...

An Average Surfer in Baja

"I'll put up a GoFundMe to pay the ransom.” That was the joking response I received from my boss when I told him I was going to Baja on...