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  • Average Surfer's Guide

What it's Really Like to Surf in California - Day 1 Bolsa Chica

I grew up in a small village on the South Coast of England. A rural fishing town surrounded by farming villages. Now I am older and living 6000 miles away from that village, I can truly appreciate the beauty, quaintness, safety and slow pace of life back home in the Westcountry. As a teenager however, it was stale and lifeless. I started surfing at age 15 which helped me to negate the boredom and gave me an identity and culture to belong too.

All the surf towns in England have a small sub-culture of die-hard core surfers, but belonging to any part of surf culture anywhere in the world, you’d be hard pressed to ignore the heart of it all. The Motherland, the home of modern surfing and its industries. California.

As a teenage surfer in England, I was longing for an identity and surfer became mine. California was always the main influence for that identity. The music I listened to, the clothes I wore and the surfboards I rode all came from Southern California. I was in awe.

California was the mecca for me and my friends. The weather, the palm trees, the girls and the waves. We saw it all from a looking glass in the shape of surf films and music documentaries. It was the promise land. Or so we thought. I was lucky enough to get the opportunity to move my life to California at the age of 22 and I did.

A decade or more later and I’m still in love with the Golden State. Although, I have learned the realities are a little different from those early surf movies and documentaries. It certainly isn’t all sunshine, perfect waves and Baywatch, although some days it isn’t far off.

If you are planning a surf trip to Southern California anytime soon, or perhaps you live here and are unsure of the best spots. We have put together our 10 Day Surfing VLOG to give you a realistic view of what being an intermediate surfer in California is all about. While the waves are not world class every day, they are consistent and there is almost always something to surf.

Day one of the ten-day challenge was at Bolsa Chica State Beach in Huntington Beach. Have a peek above…

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