The Average Surfer's Guide
The release date has been set, November 19th. You can get on the pre order list by dropping your name and email into the form on the home page.
So what's it all about?
We all go through chapters in our lives just like a book. For me the chapter that led to this book was both the worst and best of my life.
The chapter began on a mild, pitch dark, moonless night in April 2014. My life had finally fallen apart, roughly a year or so earlier. On that late spring evening, at about three in the morning I found myself sat on a river jetty near Newport Beach with a loaded Glock seventeen hand gun in my backpack.
I'd reached the coastline after I had walked over ten miles in a state of absolute hopelessness. There I sat, at the end of the earth, on a cold rock, staring at the waves, the black oil painting like ocean would be the only witness. I began to wonder what the news reports might say about the unknown man who had washed up on the famous beach at the start of summer.
I sat for hours, I thought about my friends, my family, my past and my future. I thought about the people who had wronged me and the people I had wronged. In the end, I never found enough courage to be a coward that night. I never pulled the trigger and wrote that final chapter.
Instead my chapter continued, for a while it continued in the same dark setting, struggling to find a way forward and wondering what I really had to offer myself and the world. I never thought that chapter would end, but it did.
The end came on a humid, rainy day in Costa Rica in 2018. I remember a feeling of absolute bliss, absolute contentment and absolute presence in a moment. Four years after i'd been sat on the rock jetty, there I was, sat on the back of a quad bike, racing through a jungle to check the surf with my best friend Steph at the wheel, I was the happiest I had ever been in my life. How had the story changed so drastically?
The answer was that I had embraced the change. I had gone through all the necessary to learn and to change. That included the pain and the hard times and that night in Newport Beach. Not by choice, it was a natural, organic progression. I hadn't forced myself back into a life that had led me to depression. I had let life show me where to go, led by one of the greatest gifts I had, my love for surfing.
In the end this book was my own creative outlet as I walked through that chapter of my life. First letting go of the depression, then deciding to give as much to surfing as it would give to me. No longer being content with my intermediate skill level.
My surfing and my life became parallels and metaphors for each other. I worked hard on myself and I worked hard on my surfing. I surfed, I wrote, I loved, I worked, I grafted, I traveled and, most importantly, I created balance. Today, I find myself the happiest I have ever been.