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About Last Night...

As an average surfer, every now and then you have one of those sessions.  You know, the one where you walk back in after surfing and feel like a new person. Your soul is satisfied and your eyes are salty. Many factors can make a surf session memorable, it could be the location, the waves or the people...

Last night was one of those for me. I almost didn't paddle out from sheer laziness. I was sat at my laptop at my kitchen table at 3pm, I noticed the offshore winds from my window and decided to grab my board and wetsuit.

I threw my stuff in my truck and made the short 10 minute drive to Bolsa Chica.  I was greeted by waist high waves, offshore winds and only 10 other surfers in the water.

Two hours later I was walking back in from one of the best sessions I have had in months. The waves were not huge and the shape wasn't perfect but there was something special about the session.  The air was cold and it felt like fall for the first time.  The sun set and created a beautiful yellow sky, the waves became back-lit and I felt alive...